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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” states a family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their small place securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.